Ivy League Style, born in the storied halls and hallowed lawns of America’s most prestigious colleges in the early to mid-20th century, continues to be a sought after look in the world of fashion.
What is Ivy League?
The Ivy League constitutes a group of eight private, prestigious universities in the United States. A dream for many, these colleges are often associated with academic excellence, elitism and exclusivity. Originally, the term “Ivy League” referred to the athletic conference formed by these schools, but it has since become synonymous with academic excellence.
The Ivy League schools are:
- Harvard University
- Yale University
- Princeton University
- Columbia University
- University of Pennsylvania
- Dartmouth College
- Brown University
- Cornell University
During the 1970s and 80s, a sartorial movement emerged within the corridors of these prestigious universities, one that would come to be known as the “Ivy League Style.” Often also referred to as the Collegiate or Southern Collegiate Style.
The Ivy League Style
The Ivy League Style was the uniform of young minds fueled by the ambition to climb the social ladder by means of academic excellence: classically refined at its core, but with just enough room for individual flair. It was a blend of British tailoring and American casualwear, a reflection of both tradition and practicality. It was recognized for its clean lines, elegance, and understated sophistication. Here are the articles defining the core elements of this style:
1. The Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt (OCBD)
The Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirt (OCBD) is made from Oxford Cloth (surprising). Unlike finer weaves like poplin, it is thicker and durable, with a rugged feel while maintaining a soft touch. Its defining feature is its button-down collar, designed to fasten with small buttons on both sides.
Fun fact: the OCBD was originally designed for polo players to ensure the collar keeps in place during play, but it went on to become a style staple due to its functionality.
2. Blazers and Sport Coats
Navy blazers with brass buttons are particularly iconic and considered a staple wherever the Ivy League Style is mentioned, like the one shown on the right in the above picture. The key element of these blazers is that they are ‘soft-shouldered’: they have minimal to no padding on the shoulder area, creating a more relaxed look as opposed to a more rigid and angular one. They can be used for formal occasions when paired with a tie, or kept casual with an open-collared shirt.
3. Chinos and Khakis
Both, Khakis and Chinos align with the clean look that defines the Ivy League Style, providing a casual yet polished appearance. While Khakis offer a more casual look, Chinos are more preppy and dressier. They can be paired with any combination of the Oxford Cloth Button-Down Shirts, sports blazers, sweaters and/or cardigans to create an authentic Collegiate outfit. Neutral tones like beige, navy or olive would blend in seamlessly with the Ivy League aesthetic.
4. Sweaters and Cardigans
Knitwear is another key element of the Ivy League Style, bringing a subtle sense of warmth and sophistication to your outfit. It can include the classic cable-knit sweaters, crew neck sweaters and university-branded cardigans like the one shown in the picture. Lay one of these over an OCBD for a polished, scholarly appearance; another one of the most iconic looks of the Ivy League aesthetic.
5. Penny Loafers
Inspired by Norwegian slip-on shoes, the penny loafers were popularized in the US by the company G.H. Bass & Co, which introduced them as the “Weejun” (short for Norwegian) loafer. They pair effortlessly with Chinos, Khakis and Blazers, and are also highly functional as a result of being slip-on. By the mid-20th century, they became a symbol of the intellectual class, often associated with Ivy League universities.
Fun fact: “Penny Loafers” get their name from the leather strap across the top of the shoe, as shown on the above pamphlet. American students, especially on Ivy League campuses, would slip a penny into this slot for stylistic and practical reasons. At that time, it would only cost a penny to make calls via payphones, so a theory is that they kept the penny in the shoe in case they needed to make a call while about on campus.
If you are aiming for an authentic Ivy League Style/Collegiate outfit; wear these penny loafers without socks; search for classic colors like black, brown and burgundy; get the ones that are made of leather.
6. The Repp Tie
A Repp tie refers to a silk or wool tie with diagonal stripes, usually made with a ribbed texture known as the “repp weave.” The stripes typically alternate between two or three bold colors with sharp contrast, usually representing the school or club colors that it is associated with. Originally, it was part of the British military and school uniforms used to denote allegiance to a particular regiment or institution. However, when it comes to the Ivy League Style, it is mostly used to show membership in a fraternity.
If you can find authentic “Made in USA” Collegiate ties from the 1960s and 1970s, they can sell for good money or be valuable collectibles.
What became of the Collegiate Style?
Ivy League Style wasn’t just about fashion. It became a cultural symbol of success, privilege, and intellectual prowess at the time. Brands like Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers helped popularize the look by crafting collections that captured the spirit of the Ivy League aesthetic while making it accessible to a broader audience. As the style continues to evolve in many ways with modern fashion trends, its core elements— the Oxford Button-Down Shirt,the navy blazer with its brass buttons, the pressed chinos, the Repp tie and the penny loafers— remain relevant to this day.
If you are also interested in Old Money clothing brands, which match the vibe of the understated elegance and sophistication offered by the Ivy League Style, feel free to check out this list.